A Paradise in Prague

Street musicians on Charles Bridge

I've been avoiding writing an entry on my time in Prague because, while I went there to study creative writing, I have a hard time finding the words to describe the experience. In fact, a part of me feels that explaining it at all would only cheapen the experience, but I guess that's a risk I'm going to have to take.

The words I've come up with, so far, to describe my two weeks in the Czech Republic are: underwhelming, overwhelming, welcoming, alienating, inspiring, unifying, terrifying, exhausting, sweltering, fascinating, exhilarating, titillating, and last of all, heartbreaking. And that's all I might say about my many reactions to Prague. Onto the facts of what I did.

On the right: my photography instructor, Jan Pohribny. On the left: Jindrich Streit

First of all, I learned *so much* in my playwriting and photography workshops. I met so many amazing people and got very close to some in the short two weeks I spent there. The feeling of being surrounded by artists who all share that need to create was incredible, and being taught by such brilliant artists was even better. On top of that, Prague is bursting with creative energy and inspiration: a celebrated freedom after the Velvet Revolution and downfall of communism in CZ. During a photography field trip, I had the honor of meeting Jindrich Streit, a celebrated Czech photographer who resisted the communist regime and ban on art and who was arrested and spent time in jail for having a contemporary art gallery in his home (which I was lucky enough to visit). Through my photography class I was able to visit the studios of many renowned Czech photographers, and met many wonderful people that way. It was these visits and that field trip that helped me really find myself in the Czech Republic, and begin to love the experience of being there.

Three playwrights and a poet: Avi, Laura (my roommate, luckily for me), myself, and Aleks

As for my playwriting workshop, I was blown away by the amount of talent present with me three days out of the week. Actually, the amount of talent in the whole program was shocking. We had student readings in a small theater on Friday evenings and the first reading--featuring the illustrious playwrights along with fiction and poetry writers--was incredible. I met so many inspiring writers, in and out of my own workshop. Our class formed a nice group and we went out on adventures, such as seeing Henry IV in Czech at the foot of Prague Castle. Talk about an experience.

The stage for the Czech Circus

Speaking of theater, Czech theater is... wow. It was one of the many things I fell in love with there. Laura and I had the extreme pleasure of going to one of the showings of the Czech Circus our first week in Prague and it was an experience that I know I can't find the words to describe. The basic idea is that it follows the life of two clowns, but just saying that doesn't do the whole thing justice. The first half you're amused and entranced, delighted by the scenes before you. By the second act, you're shown images of beauty and love and hurt so fresh that you forget everything else entirely. Perhaps the effect was stronger since we weren't expecting it; we were just looking for a lighthearted time, but by the end found our hearts breaking. In a way, that experience alone pretty much sums up Prague for me.

But we (Laura, Erinn, Aleks, and I) also got to see a Black Light Show. That was a rose of a different color. It was entertaining and fun, but nothing like the intensity of the circus.

The Astronomical Clock

I saw many sights around Prague, including the Astronomical Clock, Jubilee Synagogue, Dancing House, and Cathedral + Castle. They were all nice, but the tourist area of Prague unnerved me in a way. It was beautiful, yes, but almost too much so. At night it felt genuine, but in the day, it felt like a street in Disney World. It seemed difficult to believe that anyone actually *lived* there; it seemed to be filled with tourists and visitors.

Me with two of my favorites--Erinn and Aleks--at the World Cup Spain vs Germany game in downtown Prague

One of the other fun experiences I got to partake in was World Cup gushing with the Europeans. It was amazing to be in Europe during the World Cup, seeing as Europe actually cares. Like, really, REALLY cares, as they should. Prague was projecting each game in the Old Town square for whoever wanted to come watch, and hundreds showed up. We couldn't pass up this opportunity, and enjoyed a very rambunctious and very exciting front-row view of football enthusiasm. The first half of the game we were mostly on the German side, trying to blend in. By the second half, we'd all switched over the the Spanish side, which turned out to be the right place to be. Viva Espana!

Sedlec Ossuary in Kutna Hora, CZ

I got one day of adventurous exploration on my own. There was one place I needed to go outside of Prague: Kutna Hora, home of the Sedlec Ossuary, aka, the Bone Church. Sadly for me, there was a tour arranged to go here while I was on my photography trip so all the people I'd want to travel with had already been. But it was fun/terrifying to figure out the Czech train system and get there all by my lonesome. I walked around a bit too much of Kutna Hora (getting lost was involved) and got to walk through the beautiful pastel Cathedral.


And then the Ossuary. For those unfamiliar with the place, it's basically a church that's decorated completely in, you guessed it, human bones. Most of the bones are from victims of war and plague in the area, and are hundreds of years old. For some reason a nearby monastery had a large storage of these bones just lying around, and then one day one monk took a look at them and thought "I could make me a pyramid out of that," and so he did. And this is reason #27465 why one should never trust a monk.

Kutna Hora Cathedral

And that's pretty much the gist of it. Sure, there's much more that could be said, but I'm not a good enough writer to do it all justice, so this'll have to do. It was a life-changing experience, and I'd do it all again in a heartbeat.

Prague's St. Vitus Cathedral at night. Goodnight, folks.